distinctive Kashmiri wooden mosques and a mild summer climate combine to make Srinagar one of India’s top domestic tourist attractions. Except, that is, when intercommunal tensions paralyse the city with strikes and shut-downs. Srinagar’s three main areas converge around Dalgate, where the southwestern nose of Dal Lake passes through a lock gate. Northwest lies the fascinatingly chaotic Old City. The busy commercial centre is southwest around Lal Chowk. The city’s greatest drawcard is mesmerisingly placid Dal Lake, which stretches a southwestern channel-spur towards the city centre, paralleled by the hotel-lined Boulevard. A bright array of houseboats here form a particularly colourful scene. The famous Mughal gardens are strung out over several kilometres around the lake.